The holds have been cleaned, the wall re-painted, and a new light added in the garage just above the climbing wall — just in time for the holidays. And I picked a cheery color theme to fit the season and match my green holds: deep chili-pepper red.

So last night I jumped onto the board to give it a try — something I had  not done for a very long time.

Immediately I was reminded of how humbling of an experience the moon board is. Even the easiest problem feels absolutely impossible. Every single move was a struggle, and I could not ever visualize myself linking the moves together and sending the problem. This reminded me of how Luke and I felt last month when we were working the Huber Variation pitch on Freerider — shut your mind off and commit yourself to the problem with all your determination and optimism, despite the fact that your body and sole are telling you that it cannot be done. (Of course the difference here is that I am at home in the comfort of my garage.)

After an hour or two what seemed like a miracle happened: starting from the ground I got through the first move, thought that it was over when I just about got the 2nd move, then the 3rd, the 4th, and so on up to the top. I sent the problem. I was in disbelief.

Now I have to translate this experience to everyday life.

It is 4:30pm, I’m just awake from my afternoon nap, and sipping on a cup of tea. I hear Indian music and chanting in the distance outside my window. Today is the birthday of Krishna (a Hindu deity)?

Figure 1: Krishna playing the flute.

It has been over 24 hours now that I have been in India, and I am quite enjoying it – despite a strong case of jet-lag.

The hotel where I am staying is quite fantastic – a paradise of peace right in the middle of a bustling city. Despite its luxury it does not feel overwhelming or pretentious like so many fancy western hotels do. People working here are just pleasant and helpful.

Figure 2: A bowl of floating petals greets us at the entrance of the hotel.

Figure 3: Like a maestro, the orchestrator keeps the flow of taxis in and out of the front area in order and timing.

Figure 4: A column at the entrance of the hotel. I am not sure what these animals are doing.

Figure 5: The door opener greets us with a smile and opens up the hotel lobby to us.

A lot of time has been spent in a hired car in traffic. The roads are incessantly bustling with traffic. Everyone is going in a different direction , and the whole thing is like a flow seemingly following some law of self-coordinated chaos.

Figure 6: Srinivas and I ride in the back and laugh at the crazy scenes we witness.

Figure 7: A cow sits in protest in front of a McDonalds.

Figure 8: Everyone is very focused on going in their own direction, yet never seem to collide.

Srinivas explains to me that in India, you can expect anything to happen. The population embraces this by becoming expert at adaptability – figuring a way to keep going. Soon we face a roadblock: a cow is in the middle of the highway, and won’t move. She looks quite relaxed comfortable there, and couldn’t care less about holding up the cars. After a few seconds of hesitation an traffic jam building up, the stream of cars, rickshaws, motorcycles, and bicycles reconfigures itself to flow around the cow. Nobody seems to find it problematic.

Figure 9: Stein in front of the Qualcomm office.

Figure 10: The new Qualcomm building, to be officially opened in less than 2 weeks.

That evening, in our way back from the office, Srinivas explains to me that to get things working, people build and run their own systems such that they rely the least possible on anything outside of their control. The company Unisys, which has a large office in Bangalore, has a huge campus with not only their own food service, but also their own bank, and even their own power plant. Smaller businesses rely on family and extended family members, of which they can control the reliability. Other than that, if you don’t have control over certain elements of your life or business, you just have to accept that thos elements will occasionally fail and you will have to adapt to it.

Figure 11: The moon goes up and all the small stores turn on their lights.

I watch the sidewalks bustling with night pedestrian traffic, and see a beautiful white firework a little bit ahead. The whole neighborhood goes dark and only the cars are left to light up the street. We pass where the firework was, and it is a large amalgam of wires on a pole jury-rigged to a stripped power line. The smaller stores are all stealing power off of the city power main and the wrong wires touched, blowing the power for the entire neighborhood. Nobody seems alerted. One by one, the store keepers go in the back and fetch low-power electric lights and hang them up.

My guess is the power probably won’t be fixed for a day or two, but that doesn’t seem to stop anyone. They obviously have a system, and were prepared to adapt.

We’ve made it to Wyoming. A lot of driving, a lot of beautiful sceneries, and the end of a day alone in a surreal desert campground.

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It’s been a while that I (Stein) have been wanting to see the northern states — Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, the Dakotas. Our neighbor Gail, originally from South Dakota, had been telling us about how beautiful the Black Hills of South Dakota are. Then, a couple months ago Gail invited us to join them in the Black Hills to celebrate her parent’s 65th anniversary — the perfect occasion for a road trip with our Sportsmobile.

So here we go, video style this time.

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Yes, that is a cow *peeing!* next to our van. She took quite a liking to our van and I guess she was marking it as hers?

Lieselotte and the van

Lieselotte "marking" our van.

We just returned from a weekend at a friend’s ranch in Mexico. Words can not even begin to describe what an amazing experience it was but we will try. In the meantime, here are a few photos to whet your appetite.

Our friend Cherine was getting married in Johanesburg, then inviting us to join them on their honeymoon. How could we resisit? We had been talking a long time about visiting Africa but didn’t know where to start; this was the perfect occasion.

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Early Friday morning Katharine and I woke up in a driveway in Queens by a cute little house (see Day 31). I guess we made enough of noise to wake up the residents: an Indian man opened the front door, looked out at us, and invited “Would you like to come in to have tea and dahl?” “No time for dahl”, I said, “I have a plane to catch for Yosemite!” And off we went to JFK.

Luke picked me up at the other end of the country, in the other great US city surrounded by an ocean, San Francisco, and we drove to Yosemite.

The plan this time was to scope out all of Free Rider — start at the bottom of El Capitan, jug up fixed ropes for a few pitches, then climb all the remaining pitches up the top over a few days. Surely this should not be too difficult: after all, we had climbed half of El Capitan during our previous trip (Yosemite Trip 1) — and in a single day. Oh my! Little did I realize how wrong I was.

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